Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Kit Bashed Ork Trukk

Here's a converted, heavily modified Ork Trukk. I used the old trukk as a basis, but with the enlarged new model had to create a new chassis and build everything around it. As you can see, the size of both models matches pretty good.

The driver will be in the front by himself, the other guy will be in the back.

I used a lot of pieces from the old firebase sprue (I mentioned before, it's from 1995), it's very useful for ork building because of the excellent designs. Just cut it up and attach in crooked ways.

The bars over the back are from sprue, you can just bend it without heating it. The tape over it will look good when it is painted.

The wheels were a challenge. The new wheels have armor and spikes, the old ones were too small and normal looking. I thought about green stuff but instead I tried this waterproof doublesided tape and it worked great. The back wheels are from a WW2 model in 1:35 scale. I wanted the back wheels to be bigger.


I stole some bits from my new Trukk, it already looked so good, so adding some nice details to the other one makes both of them look good. I am pleased with the exhaust that runs underneath. That I did need to heat in order to bend the plastic.


And here it is painted..




It's hard to not go crazy on a model like this, it's still has to look functional, not obviously self made; with Orks you walk a fine line between the two. My goal is to scratch build as if it were a real model. This one came out OK, maybe other people have good ones?

Saturday, January 26, 2008

How to Make Simple Rivets With PVA Glue

I have had a few questions about modeling rivets, and I thought with the new Space Ork codex release hopefully there will be some Orky building going on, so here is a quick how-to.

Some people like to use the hole punch method, but it takes forever and the PVA method is ridiculously fast.

Here is what real big rivet heads look like. I will simulate the rounded heads using surface tension and PVA glue.



I am using Games Workshop PVA glue (it was free) it is the same as Elmers white glue, just more expensive. You can also use carpenters glue (yellow stuff).



Use a toothpick for small size, I am using the back of a small paint brush for a larger size.

Squeeze a glob out and dip into it with pointy tool and dab on to the model, keep rows and spacing regular for imperial or space marine stuff, for Orks use different size dots and be more random with placement, you can go back over the dry dabs to build them up more if needed.





The glue will turn clear as it dries, and you can paint over it at that time.



Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Thanks everyone! SCW reaches first milestone!

We are very happy that Santa Cruz Warhammer has reached it's first modest milestone. In the last 30 days we broke a thousand visits (actually 1139) which basically means that lots of people like the stuff we put up and John and I are honored and excited. We promise to do more and will work on lots of models in the coming year. Feel free to leave any comments or things that we could improve. Thanks to Hyun for writing a glowing review about our website on his powerhouse model site called www.weetoysoldiers.com
Check out that site. We have it linked on our list.
Cheers!
John & Mike

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Posing your Model makes all the difference: Ork Dred


The Ork Dreadnought has never been my favorite model; it looks old-fashioned and static in its design and we were all disappointed that GW didn't give it another go. So instead of moping, I thought about changing it's pose to make it more active and powerful looking on the battlefield. I decided it had to step over a bunch of rubble, the moment being caught in mid action.

To get the legs to move that far, I had to remove the parts that fit into each other at the hip. I had made the base first (important), so that I could set it in all kinds of different positions before finally committing. The result looks more dominant and intimidating, which it probably would be in real life.

I did minor conversions to the model but added no other parts besides what came with it. I cut the banner in half, put the skull on the belly...

and added the heads to an arm, trying to position it with a correct gravity effect, flowing back, when this guy makes his move over the rubble.

The base was an old dread base. I added some really old vintage piece of wall from a spacemarine cardboard firebase set that came with some plastic wall pieces (1995). Find those boxes, the sprues in there are awesome. The old how to make terrain-book from 1995 has a picture of that fire base in it. Anyway, cutting up the plastic into a realistic piece of wall worked great and I am very pleased with the result. The mesh is from the new basing set.


Here's the base, painted:



Here's the big guy painted as well..




All in all, focusing on one model at a time slows you way down in terms of getting your army done, but to me it's well worth it.

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

My Avatars of War Minis are Here

I Found the Avatars of War site on weetoysoldiers , in a discussion about using non Games Workshop minis . I have to admit I am a bit of a GW snob, I just really like the models and have not found many others that look right mixed in with my GW models.

http://www.avatars-of-war.com/web2mail/web2mail.php

Felix Paniagua is a miniature sculptor that has done sculpts for GW and other mini companies , so his style fits in with my other warhammer fantasy miniatures quite well , after viewing his site Avatars of War, which has hero character models for different fantasy races I was very happy to find some great limited edition figures that would look great in my collection.

I purchased both his Dwarf slayer and Orc boss, one for each of my fantasy armies.

The price was just a bit over what a large Games Workshop mini costs, and was worth it to have something that most other players will not have.

I used the Paypal option for payment , and it was very simple.

Shipping time was a bit of a wait but arrived a week sooner than expected ( even during the holidays).



The figures were in blisters and carefully packed.

The castings were very nice and clean with little to no flash to deal with.





figures and bases were proper scale and size and will look right at home in my armies.









Overall I am very happy with Felix Paniagua's Avatars of War figures and I am looking forward to seeing what new figures will come along in the future.

Using CA Accelerator for Metal Models



I have been building models since I was a kid , mostly using plastic glues , then I started with metal kits like the type used for some of the warhammer models , which have been a total pain to assemble , dwarf gyrocopter , goblin hewer , ravenwing master on jet bike , ect. are all known for being tough to assemble and pinning is great but takes forever .

I was trying different types of CA or super glues , not having much luck . I have used rubber bands and clamps to get pieces to set , but always wished for something even faster.

One day I purchased a cheap lot of minis from a young guy off of the internet ( as I sometimes do ) which included some paints and brushes , and was happy to find a small bottle of CA glue accelerator mixed in with the hobby supplies.

I am not sure if I had never heard of this stuff before or if I had heard that it was worthless , but somehow I was not using it . So I gave it a try , I put a small dot of CA glue , touched it to the other part to transfer it over , sprayed one side with the accelerator and touched the pieces back together , and they were bonded instantly , not 3-5 seconds or even 1 second , but INSTANTLY , no more try to hold still , and leaning it against something just a dot of CA glue and a quick spray, instant bond.

There is a problem though, the bond is not very strong , so what I do now is a few very small tacking bonds , with the accelerator to hold the pieces together , and after the item is assembled , I go back over with a good gap filling CA glue to bond all the pieces without the accelerator, this gives you the long term strength that is needed for a table top model that will be played with .

I also noticed that the accelerator has best results with its own brand of CA glue. I am using BSI-107 gap filling CA glue with BSI-151 accelerator. I have been able to find them at most hobby stores around here , but they are based in California.

Go buy some , it will change your life

.

Sunday, January 6, 2008

Ork 40K Warboss Conversion: simple but fun!

So here's my Warboss for my growing 40K Ork Army. I wanted him to have an aura of invincibility and decided to hide his face. That way he remains an enigma and that makes his subordinates work harder. The body is from a Big Mek. The head and banner are from the Black Ork Sprues and the bolter is from the 40K Boyz. His cape I created from a Fantasy Ork banner. I heated it with a candle and molded it the way I wanted to.



I like using Space Marine shoulder pads. Orks
need some help in that part of their design.
I works well with my fluff too: they are
Deth Skulz and steal from everyone. The skull
on the shoulder pad comes from a wood elf sprue:
I cut it in half and glued it on.

Our boss is standing on a battle field strewn with defeated Dark Angels. I thought it would be fun to make him really actually admire the Dark Angels, so I painted him in those colors with the white robes.

Dark Angels Masters of the Chapter Conversions

I bought the Masters of the Chapter box set and converted them to make them fit in with my chapter , modeling robes and hooded heads and swords.


Here they are in primer after the conversion work.


First I will show the GW figures painted as smurfs (Ultramarines) and then my conversions.

First is the Master of the Fleet .


and my Dark Angel Master of the Fleet.


Next is the Master of the Watch ,


and mine.


Next the Master of the Recruits



mine,



and the Master of the Armory



and mine


these are not quite done yet but well on the way.

John