Friday, May 30, 2008

How to make rivets with green stuff

John (scdarkangel) has already written a post on how to make rivets for scratch built models. In his drop pod adventures he has been using small drops of PVA glue. When dry, they just are slightly elevated to make a dry brush possible. For my Ork army I have found this method too modest; hence I have been using a different method: cutting up tiny strips of plastic card. That is not ideal, for one, none of the rivets will be round. A hole punch makes them too big. This weekend I found my favorite method just come to me: greenstuff rivets.

I rolled the green stuff into a very long (10 inch) snake with as tiny as a diameter as you can muster. Even it out as much as you can and then let it dry overnight. You have to, because once you start cutting, you want the edges to be straight and tight.

Next day you start cutting the tiniest little pieces: they will all be perfectly round. Before you know it, you have hundreds of them (I did two snakes of 10 inches; look at my loot).



Then stick them on. I use a little hand drill as my main tool. I dab the super glue on, stick the hand drill lightly on the rivet and place it. The superglue will hold it and you can pull the drill off. I did over 150 rivets this way in 20 minutes.

Hope it helps anyone who needs it!
mike

Monday, May 26, 2008

Good Deals on modeling supplies from Kmart

I was at the local Kmart store today looking for some kind of storage to keep some of my armies separate until they get painted. I already have a nice glass display case from Ikea for the finished models, but the unfinished models seem to just pile up in and around my work area .




With plastic storage tubs at about 5-10 bucks for smaller ones, I was happy to find these black 3 drawer carts on sale for $10 each, part of the home solutions storage line #8800.



I also bought a 6 piece assortment of small files for Mike (I got these before and use them a lot ) they are perfect for removing mold lines and flash and a must for custom figure work; also on sale for $3 .



Here is a cart in use, each drawer is removable with plenty of room for figures and tall enough for monsters and banners, and the top tray works well for paint and tools , you can see my small file set with the red handles in the front.

I am very happy so far, and the workspace is on its way to being a bit more tidy.

Friday, May 23, 2008

SCW is doing great; thanks for all your visits!

John and I are happy to announce that we get over 2000 visits a month now so a great Thank You to everyone who comes and checks out our work. We love doing what we are doing, we love your comments and we love our blog. Let us know how to improve it!
Cheers!
Mike at Santa Cruz Warhammer

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Ork Battle Wagon, converted Armor Cast Model

My buddy John gave me an older 1989 Armor Cast Ork Battlewagon that has been sitting in the closet a little too long. In July I am playing a 16000 point Apocalypse game, so I figured I might as well do something with it. Here's a painted original model from the olden days that I found in Google Images (with respect to whoever painted it; great job. I am just using is to show what the original model looks like):

and this is my converted version with the capacity of carrying 20 troops plus str. 14 front armour.

I like to use balsa wood with super glue and the whole building process of the frame didn't take longer then an hour. I had some old pieces laying around and pieced it all together the way an Ork would do it.
I put 4 big shootas on the top, one automatic, hanging of a turrett (it swivels180 degrees) and 3 guys up on top.

In front is a Zzap gun.

And here it is with some paint slapped on it:

I had difficulties painting this oneand am realizing that I am pretty bad at painting metal on vehicles. I always go too shiny! I never know how to come up with good metal coloring on trukks and tanks, so anyone: please come up with some good ideas!

I added some details left and right...



...and made sure that the original Armor Cast engine was still exposed.



Anyway, it will work for the games and is a lot cheaper than the Forgeworld Model.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Forge World Nurgle Death Guard Conversion Sets

As you can tell we have been a bit busy lately , and not posting much , but if there is a good side to me being busy it is that I get to go to the Battle Bunker when I make it to L.A.

On my last trip I picked up some Forge World Death Guard conversion sets to make a squad of terminators and a squad of marines which I am planing to use with my Typhus model . These sets have torsos with heads and shoulder pads that you use on the current Chaos Terminators and marines , needless to say it makes for an expensive bunch of models , but you will have lots of left over bits.

First is a Nurgle Death Guard Marine , the dark grey are the plastic parts from the Chaos Space Marine box set, and the light grey are the Forge World resin pieces.










And a Nurgle Death Guard Terminator , again the dark grey are the plastic parts from the Chaos Terminator box set, and the light grey are the Forge World resin pieces.





I will update as I go, stay tuned.