Friday, October 16, 2009

The Bishkek 2nd Manticore, Part 2


Here's part two of my experiment painting up a vehicle in the Forgeworld Modeling book style.

The camo was achieved in the following way:
1. basecoat of desert yellow
2. masking tape all over, cut in at lots of places to get angles
3. darker brown spray coat
4. dark brown light misting over that darker part
After that I basecoated some things like the flamer and pipes and the barrell. Then I sponged boltgun metal on all the edges, using an old scrubber sponge, mostly where the wear would be. After that a added a gloss coat in preparation for oil paint washes. The gloss coat makes the model look terrible, I am totally not used to that look.
When I was done, I felt it I went way over the top..but I guess I have to keep going at this point....help..gotta have faith in the emperor

Mike

11 comments:

  1. I was just about to say that its looking a bit shiny

    Good to hear that your not finished yet.

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  2. The weathering is coming on well, don't worry about how it looks wip, it's the end that matters.

    Did you use a ripped up sponge?

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  3. Col Corbane: thanks for the comments. Yep, I ripped a little scrubber apart to get nice big texture
    Vinny: the shiny part really freaked me out but I will keep going. No way back anyway.

    Mike
    SCW

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  4. I'm really interested to see you aplly new techniques pulled from that MASTERCLASS book!

    Thanks for sharing your process.

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  5. Please don't give up now! I have been applying bits and pieces of stuff from the book, but have not goon full force like this. I really want to see how this turns out once you have oiled it up, powered it up, and the dull coated it.

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  6. Don't worry about the shineyness of the varnish - it will help massively when you come to using oil paints... Plus remember you can always uses matt varnish to knock the effect back! The main thing about gloss varnish is that it helps the oil paints be more controllable - the matt surface (if you dint use the gloss) will make the oils spread via capillary action... Normally before weathering I put 6 or 7 coats of johnsons klear on by airbrush, then use humbrol varnish via airbrush to matt back the effect after the weathering is done :)

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  7. Hey up, I'm also really enjoying what you doing with this series - I've pulled out my own copy of the master-class so I can refresh my memory. Persevere and hopefully you'll come out with something special!

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  8. If its piping and such on the side from a battle damage repair, do you think it would all be painted in cammo? I would think it would still be bare metal, and not painted up to match the cammo pattern on the tank. If they had the time to paint it all the same, they would have the time to fix it correctly.

    -Tallarn

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  9. You made a good job on weathering, and the model is also very good..


    how do you make the jerry cans basket?

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  10. Tallarn: you are so right, thanks for setting me straight. I will have to repaint those lines, probably green or some other basecolor.
    mike
    santa cruz warhammer

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