Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Converting Lizardmen Chameleon Skinks

I had a bunch of plastic Skinks , and decided rather than buying the metal Chameleon Skink blisters, I would try a conversion using green stuff and plastic Skinks.

here is a plastic Skink body

I cut of the tails and crests and made curly tails , googly eyes and hood things out of green stuff.

base coated green gives you an idea if the new modeled parts blend in

and a quick paint job and a regular Skink for comparison.

Modeling Slime and Gore

Got an email from a viewer named Marc about ideas for modeling slime, this method will also work for blood and other fluid type gore.

We covered PVA glue for boils and rivets, and I like that it dries clear, but it is hard to make it dangle or hang which is what I wanted to capture as adding motion to models makes them look more dynamic.

I am going to use a hot glue gun (dollar store), PVA glue and a bit of old clear sprue.

make little droplets of hot glue and drag out little tails on a piece of scrap

or using some pliers heat and stretch the clear sprue, (I like the glue gun version, but the plastic sprue is more clear if you want it to be real "see through" )

trim down to droplets with tails

glue end of tail to model with super glue

mix pva glue with colored ink, I used Citadel green and yellow inks to get a good slime color, or use red for bloody gore.

dab it onto the model and cover the clear droplets

the pva glue will dry clear, you can go over it again with untinted PVA glue to make the slime have a more slimey clear coat. The glue will darken and shrink as it dries if its not thick enough do another coat of slime until it looks good.

Thanks for the question Marc, hope this blog was helpful.

A viewer named Warphammer added;

"Great tutorial. I pretty do much the same thing, except use the GW gloss varnish to go over the slime afterwards"

It is great to hear from viewers, please feel free to drop us an email with any questions or to submit an article, or just to say hi and let us know what you are working on.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Scratch Built 40K Ork Dreadnought 'Def Dred'

Here's my latest project: a scratch built Def Dred, made entirely from scratch with a cost of $5.95 and the realization that you should ALWAYS keep your bitz, because you can never know when you need them. On a how-to, check out the compilation. Balsa wood and cardboard get you quite far. I also raided the local hardware store for good plumming materials, lots of stuff works very well. I tried to copy the normal Dred exactly, check out the comparison with the GW model.

Here he is in his full, unpainted glory. All the red pieces are bits of straw that worked really good in combination with pieces of 40k banner poles to recreate hydraulics of the arms.

The metal clippers on his left arm are made from the typical sprue that you get with the 40K metal pieces, these ones were from the Storm Boyz and had stikbomz attached. I had to shape them a little but not too much. All the other stuff are bitz from everywhere. The black wire is from walkman head phones, that stuff is amazingly easy to work with and it looks great.

Here's a view from the top. I worked really hard in copying the arms exactly, including the size. In the end I took some shortcuts, but oh well...

Here's the back. The yellow stuff is one of those fancy straws, made of really hard plastic. It was hard drilling holes in that. The brown bitz are from a WWII model that I keep stealing from. You can see the wires like very natural; headphone wire is my new favorite bitz.

A close up of the leg. Plastic card works great, not too thick though. The rivets are made using scissors, cut thin strips and cut them up. They will look good painted. The PVA method looks too benign for Ork models; they must look a little rougher.
This shot also shows the straw pretty good.

The saw blade was cut from a turret lid.

This one has burna and a big shoota.

Always try to go for a dynamic position and a nice looking base.

And here he is painted:

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Dipping the Deathwing

Since collecting up 100 Terminators to model the Deathwing, I was presented with the problem of painting all those bone white figures, I even thought of doing a pre-heresy army so I could just paint them all black, but after I heard of a dipping method for skeletons, I figured I would give it a shot.

I used water based Minwax stain, it was about $5 at the hardware store.

I used Testors Ivory paint over primer .

I filled the can to the top by adding a bit of water, and then dunked the figure.

Used some paper towels to soak up the stain that pooled up on the base.

I did a bunch and let them dry , then a second dip

after the second dip the stain has set up nice in the low spots, seems that it works much better on the second dip and has a more even coat.

here is the same figure after I added some thinned down bleached bone to add some highlights and cover some of the stain that was on the high spots that was unwanted.

Some say that you should basecoat eveything first, but I didn't want brown shadows on the rest of the colors on the model so I painted the other colors , washed them with a black wash and highlighted.

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Nurgle Chaos Spawn Conversion

I picked up the Chaos Spawn box set to make some Nurgle spawn. After the assembly I decided to add Nurgle-like bellys, bowels etc. sculpted with green stuff and boils and sores using the PVA glue rivet technique .

This Spawn has a bug like head and tenticles

The second has a long snout with a leach mouth, he seemed a bit lean so I gave him jowels, a belly with a wound and some intestines falling out and some butt implants.

In primer:

and painted:

Friday, February 15, 2008

Stripping Paint Off Of Old Figures

The other night I bought a nice size lot of figures from an add on Craigslist (a local free classifieds list ). The young man selling it was very nice and I got a bunch of good useable stuff for a great price. I will be using the Chaos marines in my Nurgle army, so they will be converted .

Some of the figures had old paint and it was too thick to just prime over, so I decided to try some paint removal techniques that I have heard others have used to remove old paint.

First oven cleaner; about $5; this stuff is pretty nasty so be safe with it, I had used it before with plastic model car kits and it worked well, so I figured it would be OK on plastic and metal figures.

Second was the Simple Green; about $5 ; I really don't like the smell of this stuff, but it is much less toxic than other methods so I will give it a try.

Last Dot 3 automotive brake fluid about $1.50 , some very nasty stuff, ( Lord Nurgle would aprove ). Having worked in the automotive industry I have seen the damage this stuff is capable of, needless to say gloves are a must and don't spill on anything. I used half of an old soda can, to avoid having to clean up.

I will use an old toothbrush to scrub the figures after a good overnight soak.

I put some metal and plastic figures in each tub and covered them with the cleaners , spraying the oven cleaner to cover the figures with foam and covering with a lid , pouring the Simple Green and brake fluid over the figures until they were covered.

I let the oven cleaner soak overnight and when I pulled the figures out it looked like little had happened , but when I started to brush them with the toothbrush , the layers of paint started to peel off , these guys had lots of different colors on them , the metal ones seemed to let the paint go much quicker, while the plastics seemed to hold on to the old paint more , but they may have had more layers , so I brushed of as good as I could and then returned them to the tub for another spray and soak.

After first oven cleaner soak and scrub, plastic on the right metal on left.

I will add more after they soak a bit longer.

So here we go, everything has had a good soak , a scrub and another soak 2 days total
heres how they look;

oven cleaner

Simple Green

brake fluid

You can see the change in the color of the solvents,
here are the figures after the last scrub;

oven cleaner

Simple Green

brake fluid

seems to me they all did ok on the metal minis , with brake fluid not doing much even to the metal ( I would have guessed that it would have been the best)

On plastics the solvents were much less effective , with Simple Green working much better than the others . Please not that these plastics have MANY coats of paint and a single light coat may have come of with less work, and as you can see some of the pieces still show color , but they are stripped , with the light color of the plastic holding a tint.

I will take all the plastics and soak them all in the Simple Green and see if I can get any of the paint off from the other solvents.

So Simple Green seems to work best , and is much less toxic, and no special gloves or containers are needed.

here is one that was stripped and then repainted as one of my Nurgle Chaos Marines;

Viewer Warphammer added;
"I always find that the oven cleaner works best for me on metal. It might be worth adding that you should clean the models with soapy water afterwards for people that don't do this often."

If you do end up using brake fluid or oven cleaner , make sure you give it a good wash in soapy water after you finish stripping the model , so you have a clean surface to paint on , since Simple Green is soap, just rinse it off real good with water.